Muslin’ing Around

Here is proof that I did actually sew a coat muslin! That Rachel is a good influence! We must convince her to move to America.

Check it out and weigh in.

muslin front

The main problem is the sleeve/shoulder area. Too wide and too much sleeve cap ease. The armhole is also criminally low.

simplicity 4110 muslin

One sleeve was sewn in with the recommended 5/8 inch seam allowance and the other was rather slapdash. I think you can tell which is which just from the photo.

muslin back

Is the upper back too roomy?? I did a small swayback adjustment and tapered the lower side seam to give my hips some room. I mean, the coat is meant to be worn with some ease and the actual coating fabric has a far different drape.

Here’s a reminder of how the pattern looks.
Simplicity 4110

The shoulder should definitely be narrowed, as was suggested by my awesome #sewcoatbuddies in the flickr comments. But would I be changing the design entirely if I made it more fitted? Yes, I think I would.

The length is OK.

IMG_5754

Would a combo of these fixes make a positive difference??
Narrow shoulder adjustment via Colette Patterns

Threads Armhole Fit Guide

Removing Sleeve Cap Ease via Design Loft

The muslin was stitched together quite loosely, so I think (to save myself cutting out more of this horrific fabric) I will pull it apart and use some of the pieces again. Is that crazypants?? I’m encouraged by the muslin making experience. I know I wouldn’t be happy if I cut my coating straight out and got this fit. Maybe I will try out Anise and see if what changes it might need.

FYI: I’m not sad in these pics.
I’m just afflicted with Chronic Bitchface.

It’s my neutral face. I cannot tell you how often someone asks me if I’m sad/mad/pissed/cranky…. Which, of course, actually makes me three of those four thing ;o)