Pantone Time

With the Sew Weekly deadline fast approaching, and a headache from hell that refuses to go away, I’ve got to do something to light a fire under my ass. One thing that pushed me a bit, realizing that the fabric I planned to use for the Fall For Cotton sew-along has more than one Pantone color!

SCORE!

Pantone Fall 2013

Sew Weekly & Fall For Cotton

I see some Mykonos Blue, some Linden and Deep Lichen Green, a little Samba. Yes?

Now, for the motivation to SEW! I’ve got four days to make the Sew Weekly deadline. Can I do it?

Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

Another Sew Along Scout!!!

Top :: Scout Woven Tee
Skirt :: Advance 9916
Sandals :: Target

This time, cropped for some belly exposure. Well, more like ribcage exposure since you will NEVER see me in this top without something with a high waist paired with it ;)
I added little pleats to the sleeves rather than gather them. I think they look sweet!

Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

I also made the hem a tiny bit hi-lo. What can I say, I really like that look with a woven tee! The curved lines at the side speak to me. I hope to get my thoughts (and photos) together to share how I modified this and the sunshine tunic version up on Kollabora.

Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

I pointed this buggy out to the kids.
Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

They had a teeny freak out when I let it crawl on my hand.
Scout :: Cropped & Dotted

My childhood self also shouted “WTF!?!?!?” as I would never have willing let a bug crawl on me then, lol! Right after the little lady snapped this, it flew away and made them all scream!

Me and the littler three were on our way back from hanging out with Mikhaela and her crew at the sweetest little party! We don’t go to many b-day functions, but I’m so glad we did this time. We had such a nice time. And stumbled across the perfect place to snap a few pics.

Good times.
Scout :: Cropped & Dotted
PS- My husband told me I looked like a little kid, today! I think it might be the midi skirt length paired with flats, lol. AND This cropped Scout also marks the THIRD project I’ve squished out of this dotted rayon challis! Stash busting for the WIN!

60s via ’13

1960s via 2013

New DRESSSSSSSSS!!!

1960s via 2013
I used the last of this origami bird/weird crown/small-ish white print fabric on this dress about 2 weeks ago, but it only made its debut today! I made a skirt with this fabric, last summer.

I was having a great time (NOT) trying to match patterns with off cuts and short yardages of fabric. Fun times….I was super psyched when I found a match.

1960s via 2013

Sandals :: Madden Girl
Belt :: F21
Dress :: Handmade
using vintage 60s pattern (Simplicity 4298) from the haul of a lifetime

1960s via 2013

This is essentially a (wearable, obviously) muslin. The bodice is a bit roomy in the chest, but still totally passable, in my opinion. I have a few go-to skirt patterns, I really want to get a good go-to bodice in my TNT pattern house. I’m pretty close with this one. I added an inch, but in the wrong place. Not the first time I’ve made this error. I’m trying to decide which fabric to use for version 2.

1960s via 2013

This fabric is cute, but quite unforgiving. It shows pin/needle holes and it tore in two (small) places on try #1000 of inserting the zipper. It was late and I should have left it for another day. Lesson learned. A little fusible interfacing and some strategic fabric marker application and it was alright in the end.

Just look how happy I was!

1960s via 2013

This was before I started sweating like crazy. It was HOTTTTT today! And this fabric left none of the evidence to the imagination….at least it dried quickly. Ahem. ;)

Last day of Me Made May, tomorrow!!! Should I make something new to wear???

Thanks so much for your feedback on being a copycat! You guys sure know how to make a girl feel better!

Also: PAVOT is totally sold out!! Sacré Bleu, lol

Do you think Lee got wind of my plans?

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

B&W Top + Denim Skirt = The Usual Suspects

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

Cardigan :: Halo Thrifted from the Salvation Army
Top :: Forever 21
Skirt :: Handmade from a vintage pattern
Tights :: ??
Shoes :: Mel by Melissa

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

What can I say, I like black and white and denim skirts!!
This is the first time I’ve worn this skirt, even though I made it months ago. It’s the same pattern as this one.
Advance 9916, 1960s

Isn’t it amazing how different they look? This denim has some stretch, so the skirt is comfy. But, I usually like much darker denim. And the a-line made it hard to work into my wardrobe, too. I’m a pencil/straight skirt kind of girl. Is it the youthfulness that an a-line skirt can convey?? I have a hard enough time coming across as an adult at times. I’m told, almost weekly, that I look like a teenager. I don’t need to help it along, lol.

Regardless, I’m glad it finally made it out of the house!

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

And I promise! I AM working on some more colorful pieces to add to my collection, lol

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

More than this cardi ;o)

MMM.D6 :: The Usual Suspects

 

Muslin’ing Around

Here is proof that I did actually sew a coat muslin! That Rachel is a good influence! We must convince her to move to America.

Check it out and weigh in.

muslin front

The main problem is the sleeve/shoulder area. Too wide and too much sleeve cap ease. The armhole is also criminally low.

simplicity 4110 muslin

One sleeve was sewn in with the recommended 5/8 inch seam allowance and the other was rather slapdash. I think you can tell which is which just from the photo.

muslin back

Is the upper back too roomy?? I did a small swayback adjustment and tapered the lower side seam to give my hips some room. I mean, the coat is meant to be worn with some ease and the actual coating fabric has a far different drape.

Here’s a reminder of how the pattern looks.
Simplicity 4110

The shoulder should definitely be narrowed, as was suggested by my awesome #sewcoatbuddies in the flickr comments. But would I be changing the design entirely if I made it more fitted? Yes, I think I would.

The length is OK.

IMG_5754

Would a combo of these fixes make a positive difference??
Narrow shoulder adjustment via Colette Patterns

Threads Armhole Fit Guide

Removing Sleeve Cap Ease via Design Loft

The muslin was stitched together quite loosely, so I think (to save myself cutting out more of this horrific fabric) I will pull it apart and use some of the pieces again. Is that crazypants?? I’m encouraged by the muslin making experience. I know I wouldn’t be happy if I cut my coating straight out and got this fit. Maybe I will try out Anise and see if what changes it might need.

FYI: I’m not sad in these pics.
I’m just afflicted with Chronic Bitchface.

It’s my neutral face. I cannot tell you how often someone asks me if I’m sad/mad/pissed/cranky…. Which, of course, actually makes me three of those four thing ;o)

A Lil’ Bit 60s

A Lil' Bit 60s

Sweater :: Handknit Coraline
Blouse :: Freecycled
Skirt :: Handmade Advance 9916
Tights :: F21
Boots :: Anne Klein

This is another of my cardigans from my former knitting life. That yoke nearly killed me! After battling with it, the end result was smaller than I wanted. It’s knit up in one of my favorite yarns, Silky Wool. The top was in a Freecycle haul. It’s from Express and it’s a size XS. I would never buy that size in the store, but I found the close (kind of shrunken) fit to be just the thing with certain outfits.

A Lil' Bit 60s

This is actually version two of Advance 9916. Version one, which is shorter and made from stretch denim, was finished before the new year and I still haven’t worn it. This longer version is also shorter than the full length of the pattern. I don’t know how tall this cover model is supposed to be, but it’s safe to say she is massively disproportionate if the skirt is this short on her, lol!

Advance 9916, 1960s

I got the pattern in the great Sew Weekly NY Meet-up and pattern swap. I’m almost positive it was Marina’s as most of the giveaway patterns were donated by her.

A Lil' Bit 60s

The only change I made to the pattern, besides the length, was to cut the waistband longer. I also lined it and finished that hem with pretty lace. I loved wearing this today! The lining prevented the dreaded static cling and it felt so slinky as I walked around. This fabric is the same one I used for my Meringue skirt. This was the last of it, some kind of poly/wool blend, I think. It’s perfect for skirts as I think it would be terribly hot worn on top. It doesn’t have much give either.

A Lil' Bit 60s

I tried to get some outdoor photos before work. I nearly froze my cheeks off! They’re not that red from just blush! I don’t know how some people take coat-less pics in the snow! Must be made of tougher stuff than me.

A Lil' Bit 60s

A Lil' Bit 60s

It was definitely hat weather, today. GEEZ was it cold! I re-twisted my hair last night so it could stay small enough to be hat wearing compatible ;0) It gets so frizzy, so fast but it was worth it as it was complimented by two very nice library patrons, lol. It has been over two years since I asked my sister to chop it (nearly) all off. This lady’s site was instrumental in helping me decide to embrace having hair that short for the first time. She has written a book about this massive shift in the way we (those of us who are naturally curly/kinky/coily/nappy) think about our hair. I think this is the most comfortable I’ve ever been with the way mine grows out of my head. I KNOW this is the most well equipped to handle it I’ve ever been.

Thanks, Nikki!

BetterThanGoodHair pb c

Breaking

At work yesterday, I had the break room all to myself. It was a busy day, library visitor wise, but surprisingly empty in the employee areas. No problem. That meant I could take some stealthy pics of me enjoying lunch in front of the window and directly next to the heater. It was COLD out yesterday!

IMG_2585

IMG_2595

I had to twist up my hair. I’d combed it out a few days ago. It was so massive I couldn’t get a hat on, lol. That wouldn’t do for the cold snap ARCTIC temps out. I knit the sweater I’m wearing ages ago and I made the dress a while back, too. This is the first outing  in a long time for the sweater and the first ever for the dress. It was comfy and warm, but after speed walking all the way to work from home (which is NOT close, long story about this that I’ll skip) I was so charged with static cling, it clung to my legs all day. I should have worn the (lined) midi skirt I sewed up (rather than cut out my coat or work on my sewing dare. I’m a chicken) instead.

I was so tired from walking so far to work (in the snow), running around helping patrons all day and battling the wind on the way home that I was in bed by 9pm. I woke up at about 4am and watched some of Amelie on cable and then crashed again.

I spent the few spare minutes I had at the desk researching sewing books. This one was available as an ebook. I downloaded it to my Nook when I got home.

It’s an interesting read, though some of the construction details are not applicable to my project.  About my project, Lsaspacey brought up a great point in the comments of my last post.

Screen Shot 2013-01-27 at 12.07.32 PM

Many of these older designs call for big shoulder pads. I HATE shoulder pads. So I immediately became concerned that I’d have huge droopy shoulders. So I did what I always do when trying to gauge size: I layered the pattern pieces, of Simplicity 4110, over something that fits.
Coat Front

Coat Back

The fit at back, hip area is pretty good. The front looks like there’s more than enough space for the double breasted overlap. But this coat is a more fitted design. Do you think more ease might be a good idea?

Check out my So(wn) Brooklyn playlist on Kollabora while you ponder ;p

Sewing Buddy

So, Twitter Sewists strike again. There I was, minding my own tweets when I stumbled across a series, featuring some of my favorite ladies, discussing sewing buddies. Specifically, coat sewing buddies. Well, as this seems to be the year of joining in, I joined in. LOL

Sewing Buddies

Seriously, I think this smaller, more intimate sew-along might be better for me. Especially with a garment that I haven’t sewn and feel really intimidated by. This tweet fest also happened to occur at a time when I was expecting a really BOSS pattern from Ms. What Would Nancy Drew Wear. She practically paid me to take it off her hands, that’s how generous her price was. It’s all I can do to keep myself from going back for more.

Here’s the pattern
Simplicity 4110

Nice, right!

This one is also a contender
Simplicty 4799

Also, pretty awesome.

Both have the desired feature, for a first timer coat maker anyway, of being rather shapeless, by design. I don’t own a wool coat in this car coat style and Simplicity 4110 is perfect for the diagonal rib type wool coating I have, in that I won’t have to match up pieces as the front and back are cut in one.

Wool Coating! Marled/Heathered Blue

Wool Coating! Marled/Heathered Blue

This is the true color.

Wool Coating! Marled/Heathered Blue

I also have a ton of this flannel to underline the wool with, if I want to get fancy.
Cotton Flannel~ Black

I have a few yards of black crepe de chine that would be a killer lining, especially since I can longer see making a dress out of it.

Crepe de Chine

Simplicity 4110 also has the added benefit of buttonhole-less closures!! No bound buttonholes! Which don’t scare me quite as much as making the matching windows in the facings. View 1 closes with self loops and the view 2, the awesome hooded version, has that sweet toggle detail. AND no collar.

Now the second choice, Simplicity 4799 has only one button for view 1. I could handle one bound buttonhole and window. I have two really awesome black buttons from my grandma that would be perfect used here. I doubt I’m going to find a pattern that calls for only two buttons, so this is as good a use as any.

Cool Ass Buttons!

I feel like I should make an attempt at a muslin. The back of 4799 looks massive and the back of 4110 looks like it might have trouble fitting over my hips. But, I feel like that step is what kept me from jumping in with Anise. I just want to sew, you know?

What do you guys think?

The Blogger Connection Ensemble

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

This outfit has sewing blogger influence all up and through it! The skirt is inspired by this look of Janice’s. WAY BACK in September I fell for it. I drafted the pattern in early October…..and pinned to the curtain in my sewing room. Then, my sewing success high fueled by my desire to make some back-to-work clothes led to the Janice skirt’s date with the machine. I have had limited to no success working with things I’ve drafted myself. But, using a combination of my TNT skirt pattern and careful studying of pattern images led to a pretty great first try! I still like the suspenders, but I’m brainstorming the best way to make them removable. Thoughts?

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

I chose this denim because I killed a skirt made from the same in the wash (and was too lazy to unpick it, re-serge the seam allowances and reattach the zipper). Plus, it has great stretch and is thick without being too stiff. I think I might need a little more wiggle room to eliminate the bunching in front. I’ve put on a bit of winter padding, which always goes to the hips. But I can totally live with it. The bunching and the padding :)

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

I like that the waistband is curved and slightly higher in the front.

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

Those back darts lie totally flat against my body. I’m pretty proud of that even if I am a little self conscious about the way it emphasizes certain assets. And my little pouf of lower belly which my husband has had it with me complaining about, lol

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

The Rachel Topper is Sewing Fairy Godmother miracle #2. It’s Butterick 9374 done up in stretch cotton plaid and is named for this Rachel, we both bought the fabric (for $1 a yard) during our trip around the GD together. I have another zillion or so yards, so look for more projects/muslins.

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

Anyway, the fit. About 1.5-2 inches was folded out of the back piece with the facing shortened accordingly and a tiny bit more ease was added to the front armhole. Again, both mods are perfect for my narrow back and dislike of tight armholes (which seem to come with sewing a smaller size  to accommodate for my back and small bust). As you can see in the photos below, it is a mite short when not tucked in. I would definitely make this again, though. As well as the  matching jacket, which is already modified for me :)

The Janice Skirt & Rachel Topper

All told, two more items added to my handmade wardrobe!! With fun connections to the sewing community!

BONUS!!