About this “SIMPLE” Jacket….

So….remember my post with those fancy hot pink suit plans???

Well, yeah…this jacket, as it turns out, isn’t quite as simple as it looks. As much as I hate to say it, anyone could tell you I’m not a pattern basher, this ones leaves quite a few questions marks floating overhead. Thankfully, I made a muslin (DON’T ASK ABOUT IT) so I knew what the general fit would look like going into things with the pink sateen.

Firstly, there are minimal markings on the pattern itself. I’m almost certain my sleeves are in backwards, something I can do WITH the pattern markings in place, so without them I was bound to fuck it up. See how they twist across my biceps??
About this "SIMPLE" jacket
I lengthened the sleeves quite a bit. I really like the whole look Ms. V.B. has going on and wanted to mimic it as closely as possible. I’m happy with the length, I cuffed the bangled side up, here. But maybe they should taper in more?? And, you know, face the correct direction?? I must say, the sleeve cap is drafted to perfection. There is, literally, no easing in. It fit exactly into the armhole. Both sleeves. A small miracle.

But, it seems much shorter on me than the model.

PDF Sewing pattern - Cropped blazer

I never thought I had a particularly long torso, but I’m reconsidering that, as I ultimately add length to most things that I sew. It’s also entirely possible that I messed up on the hem. The instructions are a riddle wrapped in a conundrum. Thank goodness for sewing bloggers. Tidy Tipsy noted the missing step in her post. She saved this thing and its muslin (DON’T ASK ABOUT IT) from being flung out the window. I assure you, that is not hyperbole.

About this "SIMPLE" jacket

Ok. So, once I got my head around the hem on the pink version (DON’T ASK ABOUT THE MUSLIN) I tried it on, and I kind of love it. Well, after I (hand) stitched the hems and facings down. Beforehand, it looked terribly misshaped. But, I find that while it looks and feels better, I’m really unhappy with how unfinished the inside looks.
About this "SIMPLE" jacket

About this "SIMPLE" jacket

From a distance, it’s not so bad.

About this "SIMPLE" jacket

But, I’ll be wearing this, not viewing it from across the room. Maybe I should use a different stitch? Or make them much closer together? Or both?

Idk, at this point, I’m ready to pull the whole thing apart and start again. I’m OK with that thought, though. I really want this to look like the vision I have in my mind. With the exception of the side seams, which I top stitched, this should be easy to undo.

What do you all think??

Try to line it?

Use different fabric?

It doesn’t look so bad, forge ahead (after you put the sleeves in properly)?

You’ve got bigger probs than you think, there’s something else afoot with those sleeves?

17 thoughts on “About this “SIMPLE” Jacket….

  1. Despite your trials and tribulations, I am inspired to make this blazer. Masochistic or what?! I DO have a long torso, so I know I will be making mine longer. Thanks for the info and yours still looks great!

  2. I actually really like it. I don’t feel like I can judge the sleeves from that one front photo—they look really good from the back. If I were you I’d be inclined to line it (maybe even just hand stitch in a lining at this point ) but otherwise it’s looking really good. :)

  3. I’d try the Fasion Star jacket – same look but fully lined.
    But if you want an easy fix could you sew a nice white or contract trim over the inside raw edges and hem line to cover up the untidiness?

  4. I’d try the Fasion Star jacket – same look but fully lined.
    But if you want an easy fix could you sew a nice white or contract trim over the inside raw edges and hem line to cover up the untidiness?

  5. Oh but it has such potential!! I love the color! Again, you are just killing it with the color these days! And the smart collar and cropped length are really flattering. I would try to reset the sleeves and see if that helps with the twisty bicep issue. And I would also use the pattern pieces to cut a lining for it. OR use bias binding to finish off the inside (I think it’s called hong kong seams…?) I never understand why people make patterns for unlined jackets. Who wants an unlined jacket? But a contrasting bias binding on the inside might save you the trouble of drafting a lining and would also make the inside look smart, just in case anyone catches a glimpse.

  6. I would totally put a lining in this. Your issue with the sleeves might be caused by friction against a shirt worn underneath. A lining would help it slide on better and I think you’d smile every time you put it on. So glad I stumbled upon your blog today!

  7. Take this with a grain of salt, since I am pretty much the LAZIEST person in the world when it comes to sewing….but I think it looks great! Yeah, the sleeves are twisty, but you think you can fix that, right? Other than the twistiness, it’s a really cool jacket.

  8. What a fabulous, fantastic color! You could finish the raw inside edges with some bias in a fun print or contrasting color if you don’t want to line the jacket. I’m unsure about the sleeves being backwards (um, I’ve done this too. more than once. so you are very very not alone in set-in sleeve confusionville). If you look at the pattern envelope there’s some rippling and a crease across the model’s upper arm too, while her arm is at her side. So, it could just be a drafting issue. My instinct would be to try rotating the sleeve head forward a little and see if that helps. Hope this helps!

  9. What is you bound the seams inside? Pretty color and fabric. I say don’t give up. Maybe put it in the magic closet for a while. Also, I got my Victory pattern- saved and printed already. Though I won’t be making it for a while. Thanks so much!!

  10. I think it looks great and I’m glad my post was helpful to you :)) I had actually read about the missing step in an online review as well! I pinked my seams but I’m not that happy with it either so next time I’d serge them or, as several commenters have suggested, covering them with bias binding would looks great!

  11. LOVE this color! I bought some similar colored sateen for a little jacket but haven’t decided on the pattern. This is a cool little jacket, too. Sometimes sleeves go twisty on me even if they’re in the right way… I think this is a forward shoulder thing? Depends on the pattern, but if they looked right in the muslin (no I’m not asking about it!), I’d definitely retry the sleeves and hopefully all will be golden. I kinda like unlined jackets that I can just toss on but we all have our preferences… Hong Kong seams are cute. Good luck!

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